Part Two in a Series
shape of the lagoons are important for float plane pilots as most
landings, or water alighting as the Australians call it, take place
inside the protection of the smaller lagoons. In most cases, the larger
atolls are too large to provide ultimate protection from the winds and
wind borne waves. In the strongest winds the inside of the large atolls,
such as South Ari Atoll can blow up some very large swells. On the worst
days, these swells are too large for any normal seaplane operation.
The ancient and robust atoll reefs,
however, do for the most part, protect the inner waters from the poundings
of the real ocean swells and consequential surf. This reef break is world
famous and creates some spectacular surfing at the openings of the reefs
where the swells curl and break along the coralís edge into the inner
atoll waters. Chickens, Colaís, Pasta Point, and Towns are a few of the
surfing hot spots.
There are two main types of inner
lagoons. Boundary lagoons, some of which are 3-15 kms long, are formed
just inside the outer ocean reef, with the large reef providing protection
on the ocean side, and a smaller reef providing protection on the inside
of the atoll. The other type is the smaller independent round lagoons that
have formed from one or more single coral heads that have grown outwardly
over the years until the center begins to erode leaving a sparkling
blue/green shallow bowl of ocean water inside with a sandy white bottom.
If the lagoon gets large enough the water inside the lagoon can get quite
deep and turn azure blue in the sunlight.
coral reefs were everywhere and seen through the azure blue waters
were spectacular in their diversity of colors and marine life. Even
from 1000 feet I could make out clouds of schooling yellow and blue
fish, basking green turtles, cruising slim sharks, darting sliver
predators, gliding manta rays, and multitudes of gem stone yellow,
orange, and red unidentified life forms blooming out of the reef
Therefore there are two main types
of islands as well. Many of the larger islands are formed along the rim of
the atolls. Thus, Male, Fonadhoo (Gan), Kuramathi, Rashdoo, Maamigili and Holiday (Dhiffushi) islands are situated on the south or south eastern ends of their respective atolls. Large is a
relative term, however, as my wife and I could walk, at a brisk pace,
around the island of Male, the largest city in the Maldives, in about a
Then there are the smaller
lagoon islands perched nicely on the edge of the small lagoons. These
islands are usually round or crescent shaped with a ring of white sand all
the way around. We could walk the circumference of most of the smaller
islands in about 10-20 minutes. Pacing yourself for a leisurely stroll
allowed for sightseeing the assortment of Europeans sunbathing in various
stages of undress.
That western decadence is what the
Muslim government of the Republic of Maldives, an elected body with a
president, has been very careful to protect their people and environment
against. They have attempted to prevent aggressive over-development by
implementing a conservation ecology minded long-term plan. The plan is
based on proper use of the islands by the proper factions. There is a
definitive segregation between differing statuses of the islands.
First are the traditional inhabited
islands. These islands are where a majority of the population lives, Male
being the biggest and most populated. Gan, Viligili, Thulusdhoo, and
Eydhafushi are some of the others. Many of these populated islands, not
including Male or recently opened up Viligili, are off limits to tourists
or non-Maldivian visitors except with special permission, granted by
either the Minister of Atolls, or by the island officials themselves. The
idea of the regulated visits is to protect the islanders from an
inundation of western cultures and values.
Secondly, there are the government
public islands. No one is allowed to inhabit these islands, but the locals
are allowed to visit them for recreational use. Non-Maldivians are not
generally allowed except with special permission. These islands, like
Kudabados near Male, are used on weekends by the locals for daytime
outings to go swimming and have a picnic. Hundreds of these islands,
however, are so small they consist of only a sand cay and a few shrubs.
Third, there are the privately
controlled or leased islands that are used for agriculture and are
controlled by the Minister of Agriculture. Many of the coconut, papaya,
bananas, watermelons. and other fruits and vegetables grown on these islands are used
locally or sold to the resorts.
Finally, there were the islands, officially considered uninhabited, the
government has designated to be leased for the tourist resorts. When I
arrived in Male in February of 1997 there were about 82 resorts of various
sizes and grades and most of them were serviced by boat. About 8 resorts
were serviced by helicopter off 5 active helipads, and Maldivian Air Taxiís
fleet of Twin Otters serviced about 20.
Hummingbird had no exclusive
floatplane transfer contracts for tourists, but shared several resort
transfers with the helicopters. This was the way they intended to get
their feet wet in the transition from exclusively helicopter to
exclusively day time seaplane transfers. The helicopter contract was
going to be continued, however, for the nighttime transfers. Several of
the largest airlines, specifically Singapore Airlines, and Malaysian
Airlines arrived too late in the evening for using the seaplanes. The
helicopters had special DCA permission to carry out night special-VFR
transfers as long as they met certain criteria.
There had been two previous major
accidents with helicopters over the past five years with several
fatalities, and many clients were losing faith in the safety of
helicopters over the oft-times rough ocean journeys between atolls.
Although the Mil-8ís are twin engine there always seemed to be some
other problem that would bring them down. Hummingbird Helicopters had a
serious accident in 1993 when a tail rotor gearbox had failed in a Mil-8
and 9 passengers had been killed. Hummingbird had barely survived the
reconstruction period that followed.
Rod flew over Nika Resort to scout out
the reefs. The tiny island was set among several other islands and
surrounded by irregular coral reefs. Rod picked his spot and landed in a
long channel marked with only two difficult to see poles. He dropped the
plane off the step early and taxied in cautiously. Once down, the reefs,
so easy to see from above, disappeared. I could see no trace of where the
ragged reefs lay below the calm ocean surface.
Rod feathered the prop and glided in
like making a regular Beaver approach to the dock. I could see the current
swirling around under the aircraft and would have felt more comfortable
using the beta approach just in case we had to make some last second
adjustments. Rod, however, timed it perfectly and we tied up safely.
Two young, fit, darkly tanned, and
very excitable Italian hosts met our passengers. The resort, like many in
the Maldives, was almost exclusively Italian. The hosts greeted us all
with a cold white face cloth to cool our brows, and an icy fruit juice
drink. Many of the resort would not bother to give the pilots such a
welcome, but on Nika they did. We did not linger long, but turned
ourselves loose to head back to the airport. Most of the trips were like
this one: one-way out to the resort, one-way back to Male. As Rod pushed
the Caravan up on the step I was glad he had memorized the reefs because I
sure could not see them.
The Caravan we flew, 8Q-HID, must have
been the oldest amphib C208 in existence. It was originally bought by B.C.
Tel in about 1985 and served them faithfully for many years. It was a good
solid aircraft and I enjoyed flying it, but it eventually earned the
nickname, Hotel, India, Dog. It still had the 600hp P&W, and
compared to the 675hp installed in the factory new 8Q-HIC, she was hard
The additional problem of having such
an old Caravan was going to plague us in the months to come as well. You
simply cannot bring an aircraft that has been used in marginally salty
water, such as the West Coast, for many years and dump it into the
extremely salty waters of the Indian Ocean without a major overhaul and
expect it to survive. Within weeks the corrosion started to blossom and
continued until we had to ground the aircraft months later for a complete
de-corrosion and painting.
This aircraft and the two Twin Otters
were all bought by the non-aviation experienced Managing Director,
because, as he readily admitted it, they were cheap. Both Twin Otters (a
100 series and a 200 series) were sorely underpowered and suffered
maintenance problems from the very beginning. These two decrepit Twin
Otters looked like they had been banished to the Maldives for sins of a
Thus, three of our original four
aircraft were wholly inadequate for the job to come. Not that I was
surprised or perturbed, but I can say that, like many of the other pilots,
I was disappointed. Nevertheless, I was determined to help make a
difference in making the company safe and efficient.
I was not disappointed with the flying
in the Maldives, however, as once airborne I was in my chosen element.
Seeing the Maldives from above brought on an entire new perspective.
Although the islands were flat unassuming and far between, the coral reefs
were everywhere and seen through the aquamarine green and topaz blue waters were spectacular in their diversity of coral reefs and marine life.
Even from 1000 feet I could
make out clouds of schooling yellow and blue fish, basking green turtles,
cruising slim sharks, darting sliver predators, gliding manta rays, and
multitudes of gem stone yellow, orange, and red unidentified life forms
blooming out of the reef structure. I knew, whatever obstacles were ahead
in setting up this operation, that I was going to enjoy my time in the
Images by John S Goulet
Note from the Editor.
Hummingbird Helicopters became Hummingbird Island Airways, and Hummingbird
Island Airways no longer exists. It has been sold out, and reincarnated as
Trans Maldivian Airways. This story is about the two years it was HIA.
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